Inside a Historic Bangkok Theater: Passionate Performers Keep Khon Alive
When it comes to traditional performing arts in Thailand, **Khon** is perhaps the most iconic. This masked drama, deeply ingrained in Thai culture, offers a vivid spectacle that combines dance, martial arts, and traditional Thai music with elaborate costumes and jewelry.
When it comes to traditional performing arts in Thailand, **Khon** is perhaps the most iconic. This masked drama, deeply ingrained in Thai culture, offers a vivid spectacle that combines dance, martial arts, and traditional Thai music with elaborate costumes and jewelry.
At Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi International Airport, travelers are greeted by towering statues of yak, or giant ogres, a nod to the characters from the Ramakien, Thailand's national epic derived from the Hindu Ramayana. Khon, dating back to the Ayutthaya era (1351–1767), brings these tales to life. This rich tradition earned Khon a place on UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity list in 2018.
Backstage at Sala Chalermkrung Royal Theatre
Khon performances feature several character groups, including the Phra (lords), Nang (ladies), Yak (ogres), and Ling (monkeys). While ogre and monkey performers wear masks, other characters use dramatic makeup. The unseen narrator provides the dialogue, allowing performers to focus on their movements.
Today, Khon is performed in various venues, from schools to special events, and even in some restaurants. However, one of the most authentic experiences can be found at Bangkok’s Sala Chalermkrung Royal Theatre, which hosts three shows per day, five days a week.
A Day in the Life of Khon Performers
Performers like Apassara Nok-ork, who plays the Princess Mermaid Suvannamaccha, and Thanet Pakwisath, who plays Hanuman the Monkey King, must arrive hours early to prepare for their roles. Apassara, who has studied traditional Thai dance since she was four, emphasizes the importance of starting young and maintaining rigorous training to manage the heavy costumes and intricate movements.
Flexibility is crucial for female dancers, with intense training required to achieve the highly unnatural hand movements. Apassara demonstrates her skill by bending her fingers back in a way that showcases the extraordinary flexibility Khon demands.
Despite the physical challenges, the performers’ dedication is evident. Apassara finds immense pride in presenting this valuable art to audiences worldwide. Thanet, who has been practicing Khon for over 20 years, echoes her sentiment, viewing Khon as more than just a part of his life—it is his life. However, he worries about the future of Khon, calling for more attention and support to preserve this cultural treasure.
Sala Chalermkrung: A Living Museum
Located on historic Charoenkrung Road, Sala Chalermkrung Royal Theatre celebrated its 90th anniversary in 2023. Sponsored by King Prajadhipok to mark Bangkok's 150th anniversary, the theater originally opened in 1933 as a modern cinema. Over the years, it became synonymous with film premieres, but by the late 1970s, its popularity waned.
In the 1990s, Sala Chalermkrung was repurposed to focus on preserving and showcasing Khon and other traditional Thai performing arts. The theater’s original charm has been meticulously maintained, from its lobby to the auditorium.
Today, the theater offers a rotation of shows, with a new Khon performance set to debut in July. Tickets are available at the door for 400 baht ($11), and admission to the nearby Grand Palace (500 baht) includes a free pass to one of the theater’s weekday performances at 1 p.m., 2:30 p.m., and 4 p.m.
By visiting Sala Chalermkrung, audiences can experience a piece of living history, witnessing the dedication and artistry that keep the tradition of Khon vibrant and alive in modern Thailand.